3. A Carnival Chronology
The following is a detailed chronology of what happens prior to and during the Carnival Season. Each of these will be released as a separate file to the New Orleans Mailing List, and will be available through the list's mail server (mail-server@mintir.new-orleans.la.us).
The preparation period for the 2006 Carnival season
began the day after Mardi Gras, 2005. Revelers haven't caught their
breath, debutantes haven't recovered from the whirlwind of parties
and balls, and drunks haven't even been released from Central Lockup
when krewe captains and individuals alike begin thinking about the
next year.
Travel planning is the first big planning step taken right after
Carnival. Many regular Mardi Gras visitors make their reservations
for the next year as they're checking out for the current one. Same
goes for restaurants -- you want reservations at Commander's for next
year, this year is the best time to make them. The weekend before Fat
Tuesday through Ash Wednesday is the busiest time of the year for the
New Orleans hospitality industry, with hotel occupancy rates at
98-100%. There was some concern this year that the casinos on the
Gulf Coast were cutting into the number of people staying in New
Orleans for the Sugar Bowl, but this won't happen at Carnival time.
If 5% of last year's hotel guests go out to Biloxi, 5% more people
will take their place for Mardi Gras.
For the people who put on Carnival, the initial preparation stage is
to do a de-brief on the season that just concluded. Krewe captains
meet with their officers and evaluate all aspects of the parade,
discuss which bands they want to ask back next year, evaluate the
performance of the police, and the behavior of the krewe members.
After this is done, many will take a week or two off from Carnival,
then things start back in earnest. The next step is to decide on a
theme for next year's parade. For krewes that own their floats, this
is a simple process. The captain and other officers meet with the
artists from the company that builds their floats to kick ideas
around. The School of Design usually chooses a historical or literary
theme for the Rex parade. Others choose themes based on current
events, movies, songs, etc. Krewes that rent their floats have a more
difficult time putting a theme together. They have to wait until
their float company puts together its rental pool, then see which
ones can be assembled to make a parade. The other difficulty New
Orleans krewes who rent has is a city ordinance that permits floats
from being in only two parades in the city during a Carnival season.
Some krewes use all of the floats from another krewe's parade, so
they have to wait for that krewe to complete their plans before even
starting theirs. Zeus in Metairie is an example of this. They parade
on Lundi Gras evening with the floats Endymion used in the city the
Saturday night before.
While the captain and the krewe officers work on the theme and
floats, the float lieutenants are busy handling membership
recruitment. New members are usually brought into a krewe when a
current members resigns, or dies. Each individual float lieutenant is
responsible for filling holes in their float's complement. There's
always turnover in krewe membership, although it's often quite slow
for the more popular krewes. Endymion and Bacchus are said to have
membership waiting lists of over a thousand people each! Still,
people get transferred to other cities, or they die, etc., so there
is always a bit of on-going membership recruitment. It's important
for a float lieutenant to get their members together as early as
possible so orders for costumes, etc., can get put in on time. Much
of the krewe-related throws and such have to be ordered from the far
east, so this all requires a great deal of advance planning.
Getting all of this together obviously requires a great deal of
money, so fundraising is also an important part of a krewe's
preparation for Carnival. The arrival of casino gambling in
Mississippi and Louisiana has forced many krewes to change their
fundraising strategy radically. Many krewes have relied for years on
the proceeds from bingo games. Many of the area's regular bingo
players now head out to the riverboats or over to the coast to play
slot machines. As a result, krewes are having to be more creative in
terms of fundraising events, and some have also been forced to raise
their membership dues a good bit. Fundraising is one of those
year-round projects; the more events you have, the more money you can
bring in. Krewes still have arrangements with area bingo parlors to
sponsor different nights of the week, but they're having to branch
out into raffles, mini-fairs and other events.
Being a member of a krewe's court is also a major expense, either for
the member or for a young lady's family. While many krewes have
different methods for choosing their king, the queen and court are
almost invariably chosen by the captain and his officers. Preference
is given to member's daughters who are of the right age (usually 17
to 22). Of course, a certain level of competition enters here,
placing the captin and officers in a no-win situation. Choosing the
court is actually a little bit easier for the "society" or "old-line"
krewes, since the number of debutantes is fairly limited, and there
are several opportunities for the ladies to each be a queen of a
ball. It's the "non-society" krewes where the in-fighting gets heavy,
since the fathers are normally only in one organization.
Many krewes do not exist simply to put on a parade one evening during
Carnival season; they're year-round social clubs. Krewes will hold
dances, crawfish boils and other social gatherings through the summer
and fall. These events usually bring in a little extra profit helps
fill up the krewe's coffers, while giving the members and their
families an opportunity to get together. Many krewes hold a
"Coronation Dance" in the fall, where the queen and maids for the
coming year are presented, and the king is chosen. Krewes that hold
such a dance often choose their king by lot from the members of a
more exclusive "king's club." Any member who wants to be king can pay
a premium in addition to his membership dues, and becomes a member of
the king's club. On the night of the coronation dance, all of the
names of the king's club members are placed in a hat or bowl and are
drawn one at a time. The last name in is the king. This method serves
several purposes: it brings in a little extra money, it guarantees
that a member will only be chosen if they want to (and can afford to)
be king, and eliminates in-fighting among krewe members for the
honor.
Several krewes have also gone into the "ball business" in the
off-season. New Orleans attracts many large conventions in the spring
and fall, when the weather is relatively mild. These folks want to
get a taste of what Mardi Gras is all about, so the organization
holding the convention will contract with a krewe to present their
ball one evening at a hotel. This is great fun for the krewe, since
the king, queen and court get a chance to wear their costumes once
again. It's also a great fundraising opportunity for the krewe, since
they can charge the organization holding the convention a good bit of
money for staging a ball.
By the time the fall rolls around, the only main item left to do is
to line up the bands and marching groups for the next year. This has
to wait until the school year starts, since the bulk of the marching
groups in a parade are junior- and senior-high school bands. Many of
the better high school bands will get offers from two parades held on
the same night, so it's important that the schools fix their line-ups
for the season early, giving the krewes enough time to contact
alternates. Marching in parades is an important fundraising tool for
the schools, so they take the process very seriously.
As the weather begins to turn from extremely hot to the more moderate
temperatures of the fall, the heat begins to turn up on Carnival
preparations. By August or September, hotels have hit the 90% or
better mark for hotel occupancy. Companies and large families who
rent out houses or apartments along St. Charles Avenue or in the
Quarter begin to have trouble finding a place if they wait past
September. Krewe members meet for costume fittings and to place
orders for doubloons and other krewe-logo throws. The city and parish
governmental agencies responsible for coordinating Carnival begin to
hold meetings with krewe officers, school band directors, the police,
and others to discuss plans for the coming season. By Thanksgiving,
just about everything is in place, and ready to shift into high gear
after Christmas. Some krewes will hold a Christmas social or dance,
and some even hold their ball during the Christmas season, even
though the official start of the Carnival season isn't until January
6th.
By the time the kids and grandkids are opening presents on Christmas
morning, the stage is set, and it's then just a matter of
implementing the plans. The floats are on schedule, the throw will
arrive in a week or two, and the doubloons are just about done.
Arthur Hardy's Mardi Gras guide has gone to press, and the
Times-Picayune is ready to roll their Carnival insert one week prior
to when parades begin. Popeye's has coached all of their managers on
how to order extra food to accomodate hungry parade-goers, and band
directors at schools beg the rest of the teachers to go easy on tests
and homework during the two weeks of parades. Cops cram as much time
as they can in with their families, because the sixteen hour days are
about to start. With the exception of the hotels, restaurants, and
bars in the Quarter, New Year's is just a family holiday, and
everyone waits in anticipation of the year's biggest party.
For the next several weeks, New Orleanians will celebrate the Carnival season in two main ways: going to balls and dances held by Carnival krewes (the organizations that hold the parades), and by eating lots of king cakes. In fact, since balls are essentially private, invitation-only affairs, eating king cakes is the main Carnival activity between Twelfth Night and the start of parades.
The King's Cake has its roots in pre-Christian
religions of Western Europe. It was customary to choose a man to be
the sacred king of the tribe for a year. That man would
be treated like a king for the year, then he would be sacrificed, and
his blood returned to the soil to ensure that the harvest would be
successful. The method of choosing who would have the honor of being
the sacred king was the King's Cake. A coin or bean would be placed
in the cake before baking, and whoever got the slice that had the
coin was the chosen one.
When Christianity extended its influence and began overshadowing the
religions that came before it, many of the local customs were not
outright abolished, but instead were incorporated into Christian
tradition and given a new spin Catholic priests were not
predisposed to human sacrifice, so the King's Cake was converted into
a celebration of the Magi, the three Kings who came to visit the
Christ Child.
The King Cake tradition came to New Orleans with the
first French settlers and has stayed ever since. Like the rest of
Mardi Gras during those early days, the king cake was a part of the
family's celebration, and really didn't take on a public role until
after the Civil War. In 1870, the Twelfth Night Revelers held their
ball, with a large king cake as the main attraction. Instead of
choosing a sacred king to be sacrificed, the TNR used the bean in the
cake to choose the queen of the ball. This tradition has carried on
to this day, although the TNR now use a wooden replica of a large
king cake. The ladies of the court pull open little drawers in the
cake's lower layer which contain the silver and gold beans. Silver
means you're on the court; gold is for the queen.
With the TNR making a big deal over the king cake in the society
circles, others in the city started having king cake
parties. These parties particularly among children, became very
popular and have also continued to today. The focus of today's king
cake party for kids has shifted more to the school classroom than the
home, however. Up through the 1950s, neighborhoods would have
parties. One family would start the ball rolling after Twelfth Night,
and they'd continue on weekends through Carnival. Whoever got the
baby (the coin or bean had changed to a ceramic or porcelain baby
about an inch long by then) in the king cake was to hold the next
party. You can still hear stories from folks who were kids during the
Great Depression of what their mommas would do to them if they came
home with the baby from a king cake party, since so many families
were short on money then.
Schools and offices are the main sites for king cake
parties these days. Someone will pick up a cake at the bakery on the
way downtown and leave it out for everyone to grab a piece, or mom
will send one to school on a Friday for the kids to share. You an
always tell the locals from the transfers in any given office because
the local knows what to do when he or she gets the baby. The
foreigner just drops it on the counter or some such, and possibly
might not even bring the next cake. Sacrilege.
The modern-day king cake buyer has a lot of advantages over those
folks that came over from France with the LeMoyne brothers once upon
a time. Not only do bakeries get into the king cake business this
time of year, but also the donut shops, so it's hard to escape them.
Of course, most donut shop king cakes are fried, so they're
essentially just giant donuts. Some of them aren't all that bad, but
it's a different taste from a baked cake.
The classic king cake is oval-shaped, like the pattern of a
racetrack. The dough is basic coffee-cake dough, sometimes laced with
cinnamon, sometimes just plain. The dough is rolled out into a long
tubular shape (not unlike a thin po-boy), then shaped into an oval.
The ends are twisted together to complete the shape (HINT: if you
want to find the piece with the baby, look for the twist in the oval
where the two ends of the dough meet. That's where the baby is
usually inserted.) The cake is then baked, and decorated when it
comes out. The classic decoration is simple granulated sugar, colored
purple, green, and gold (the colors of Carnival). King cakes have
gotten more and more fancy over the years, so now bakeries offer iced
versions (where there's classic white coffee cake glaze on the cake),
and even king cakes filled with apple, cherry, cream cheese, or other
kinds of coffee-cake fillings.
Prices range from two to three dollars for a small traditional cake
to close to twenty for a large filled one. A more-or-less standard
slice of king cake is about three inches wide. The ceramic babies
have been replaced with plastic ones, but many places now sell both
pink and brown babies. Haydel's Bakery usually has a limited supply
of a ceramic baby that they include with the cakes (though not baked
inside). Many bakeries will honor requests for custom-made cakes that
have more than one baby. I know kindergarten teachers who always
orders a cake with a baby for each slice, so none of the kids is left
out! That type of cake is also great for practical jokes at the
office.
Who makes the best king cakes is one of those questions like who
makes the best po-boy, or is Morning Call now unacceptable because
they've moved out to Metairie. Remember your manners whenever you
enter into discussions on religious topics. Everyone has fond
memories of a place in the neighborhood, and some folks are loyal to
even the Real Superstore. My personal favorites are Randazzo's
(locations in Chalmette, Metairie, Terrytown and Slidell), and
McKenzie's (McKenzie's is ubiquitous; if you don't know about
McKenzie's, you're not from New Orleans). Yes, I do enjoy the
much-maligned traditional king cake from McKenzie's, even though it
only has granulated sugar as a topping. Brings back memories from
when I was a kid. There are tons of other places in the metro area
doing king cakes, so it's almost impossible to review them all. Look
for discussions of what folks are eating on the New Orleans Internet
Mailing List.
For years now, those who are unable to be with us here in New Orleans for Carnival have been able to share the Carnival spirit by ordering a mail-order king cake. Many bakeries are now in the mail-order business, including my two favorites. As I buy other cakes throughout the season, I'll post additional phone numbers to the NOIML, as well as adding them to a file that will be available on the mail-server. In the meantime, here are two good starts for ordering a king cake:
The Feast of the Epiphany is a day of closure for
most Christians in the United States. It's traditionally the day when
the visit to the Christ Child by the Three Wise Men is celebrated,
marking the end of the Christmas season. The tree and decorations
come down, and household life returns to a more normal routine, as
the kids go back to school until Easter break.
The scenario is a little bit different in New Orleans. While the rest
of the country is breathing a collective sigh of relief that the
holidays are over, New Orleanians are just getting their second wind
to begin The Big Party -- Carnival. It all begins on Twelfth Night,
January 6th, with the bal masque of the Twelfth Night Revelers, and
the Uptown streetcar ride of the Phunny Phorty Phellows.
The Twelfth Night Revelers have held the official kick-off to the
Carnival season since January 6, 1870. Theirs is not the traditional
tableau-style ball held by other krewes. The members of the krewe
mask, but the centerpiece of the celebration is the the ladies of the
court are selected. A giant king cake is rolled out onto the floor of
the ballroom, and the ladies selected to be maids of the court all
gather round. Each is given a piece of the cake, and those
pieces contain one gold and several silver beans. The young lady who
receives the gold bean is named the queen, and the others become the
maids of the court. The cake originally was a traditional king cake,
but the logistics of making sure that the right lady was chosen queen
prompted the krewe to switch to a wooden replica what looks more like
a classic wedding cake.
This giant replica is wheeled out onto the floor by masked krewe
members who are dressed like bakers, all in white with chef's
hats on their heads. The bottom layer of the cake has small drawers
in it, and the ladies of the court are arranged around the cake, each
one in front of a drawer. They open the drawers and pull out their
beans. From a strictly fashion standpoint, the queen of Twelfth Night
is not as well-dressed as her counterparts from other krewes; all of
the court wear simple white dresses, since they don't know which one
will lead th way that evening. After the queen and court are
selected, the ball proceeds in the traditional manner, with
presentations to the king and queen, call-out dances, then general
dancing. The ball itself ends around midnight, but the parties
continue well into the morning.
While the men of the Twelfth Night Revelers are still getting dressed
for their ball, which begins promptly at 9:00pm, the Phunny Phorty
Phellows are already rolling on their streetcar ride from the car
barn on Willow Street down Carrollton and St. Charles Avenues to
Canal Street, then back to the barn. The Phunny Phorty Phellows is a
group of primarily thirty- and forty-something folks who decided some
years ago to renew the tradition of riding through the streets
announcing that the Carnival season has begun. The Twelfth Night
Revelers' ball is a private invitation-only affair; the Phunny Phorty
Phellows ride the streetcar route hollering out at those they meet
along the way. Of course, there's no rule that says that one
cannot imbibe a bit of the grape while riding along the streetcar
route (there's a designated driver, after all), so the Phellows do
indeed have a merry time.
By the time the streetcar is parked back in the barn, the Phellows
(there are lots of women Phellows, by the way -- no sexist
organization, this one) have disembarked, and the Twelfth Night
Revelers have chosen their queen, the rest of us are counting the
days to our krewe's functions, the first king cake someone brings to
the office, or the first parade in our neighborhoods. By day, New
Orleans is more-or-less a normal place to live, but by night, the
city won't be calm and quiet until Ash Wednesday.
|